Highlight: Women’s Fashion S/S 2016 Paris

Chanel

Book a flight to Paris for the biggest and craziest fashion week! “Welcome aboard on Chanel Airlines non stop flight to Paris! Do not forget to fasten your seatbelt. We wish you all an enjoyable flight!” I think you probably understood what I was talking about and a Chanel show is never ever something you can miss. Each season everyone is dying for it, we all want to know what this year’s shows are going to be, what theme Mister Lagerfeld chose. Suspense, suspense until last minute. It is time to check in now! What a relief and a surprise to always discover the new collection. Always incredible to see that Choupette’s dad manages to reinvent and innovate, while sticking to Gabrielle Chanel’s codes and style. Once again. Good job! I distinguished two different parts: one – pictured above – that is more classic with the straight cuts and knitwear, and the second one – pictured bellow – slightly more modern. Even through the makeup, models had blue lines all over and around the eyes, or they were wearing futuristic sunglasses, the ones that are quite big with colored or grey reflection, where you can not see the eyes, you see which ones I’m talking about? Yeah right. After the ski mask or the perl mask, what are we going to have next? Surprise me!
To point out some specific looks, I will begin with the third one above. This light pink translated in the hat and the jacket is going to be adored in China (explanation in the previous article – first paragraph). Now I would like to focus more on the second part. Not to lie about anything, I found it difficult most of the time for young people to wear the brand, nevertheless, do you see this white skirt trimmed with a band of a colorful print. Right, how to say that I just l o v e it? Something even more crazy is the sea green total look. The shoes have integrated light that you can switch on just like a previous collection with the same concept on heels. But if it were myself, I would pair it with Stan Smith! Moreover the last outfit is very different from the other looks. The long blue skirt with a v-shape around the waist is a design that I haven’t seen a lot and it stands out pretty well. What I also like is the combination of two shades of blue, thus breaking a boring simple choice.

Chanel
Iris Van Herpen
Moving on to another show, Iris Van Herpen surprised me and in the good way. Sometimes you notice designers through punctual seasons. And most of the time if it does not catch my eye, then I just pass my way. As I tell people, I do not really have a favorite designer or multiple. I believe anyone can come up now or later with something interesting and that I could like. I don’t know if I am in my silver/grey obsession or what but I feel there is something. Something that clicked. The designs talked to me, they meant something. I know it’s at lot of ‘something’ but sometimes you can not really explain what is happening. So, basically these futuristic based outfits are very creative, playing with shapes and material, the mix of fabrics and patterns. They see me wearing these so that means I was right. Eye see you!
   Let’s focus a moment on Dries Van Noten‘s bottoms. I usually appreciate the brand for its floaty and light designs, most of the time in silk. This season, they came up with this shiny/reflecting fabric. Not exactly sure what it is but aesthetically saying it looks amazing with all the shadows created by the movements. I might have a preference for the last two: the pair of trousers combined with heels or the maxi skirt with either stiletto or sneakers!
   On the contrary, we can observe different waves of skirts here at Anthony Vaccarello… what I could also call “leg day” or “free the legs” no matter how long the skirt is. Except for the first look, the others show several ways to wear skirts wether with a jacket, a shirt, a leather cropped top or a t-shirt. The designer wanted to play with femininity and sexiness at the same time. The gap or the cut makes the leg appear all in length. Watch out men… I see you coming!

 

Dries Van Noten
Anthony Vaccarello
Barbara Bui
   It is always a pleasure to attend Barbara Bui‘s runway show. Her eternal chic rock style will be forever unforgettable. Her iconic capes are revisited again and again throughout each season. A little stressed before the show, she ends up smiling and laughing backstage. She has this young vision, really up to date and modern. Her designs are as fashionable as wearable. Also to be noticed is the presence of leather among any collections. Take a moment to admire the shoes. On fleek? More than that, I am in love!
   This year is definitely Balmain year. In between Olivier Rousteing’s 30th birthday and the BalmainxH&M collection coming soon, Kim Kardashian’s friend knows how to put his friends in the spotlights. As we can often see during the show, models rank among the most popular ones: Kendall Jenner, Gigi Hadid, Doutzen Kroes, Joan Smalls, Jourdan Dunn, Alessandra Ambrosio, and more! My favorite favorite one is without hesitating the outfit in the middle. Very discreet color, that we don’t see as much as I could expect but this nude beige total look is perfection. Buckskin (or suede?) top, striped trousers matched with a gold and transparent belt, heels in the same tones and above all, a long jacket thrown on the shoulders. How chic?
Balmain
Valentin Yudashkin

Russian designer Valentin Yudashkin is a promising person in the fashion industry. Nevertheless his collections are taking different paths, is he still looking for a specific signature? is he testing multiple styles? or does he want to be large in terms of design? Last season was very dramatic, with dresses, velvet and strong details. This time, he comes up with a sporty casual collection. It doesn’t really seem like him but the inspiration and creativity lead to a consistent final work. It’s not about chic and classy anymore, although the second look presents a dress I like for its sporty, somehow graphic and mix of colors. For the fourth dress, the beauty is undeniably here, I will always wonder how to truly wear it but let me simmer in my head a little.
Did you know the dominant color in Paris is black? People in the subway, on the streets, everywhere, are wearing dark clothes. So, I was pretty joyful to see a collection like this when I bumped into Leonard. Rainbow colors all over, pen drawn, flowery or graphical, it gives some punch.  Colors are not to be afraid of, we should all take them as a game, how to match orange, magenta, etc. There are a lot of swimsuit designs in general and I think it is a judicious way to complete a runway. Otherwise maxi skirts that are going bellow the knees are really taking the shows. They have been seen indeed over a year but not so much, I think they are going to be even more trendy until 2016!

Leonard
Hermes
   Watch carefully at this picture right above. Does it feel like Hermes? It looks pretty Japanese to me… Where is the french touch? Not to be criticizing but I actually like the coats, very simple and minimalist. They obviously are timeless and easy to wear and match with almost everything. The white dress reminds me of a Kenzo style, funny thing. In the end, the value that the brand wants to convey is still noticeable: discretion and simplicity. They know who they are, no need of distinctive signs or logo. It remains a powerful house playing with timeless pieces.
   Let’s finish with a positive note. Some innocence and freedom in this rude world won’t hurt. An all white everything outfit added by a folding work for the bottom by Maison Rabih Karouz. Nothing expressive, nothing bling bling, nothing caught-my-eye. Wise, is the word. However paired with a fancier handbag or heels, the entire look will change. It’s finally about details. What you are going to choose to make it special? to stick to your personality, your style? The game is on!
Maison Rabih Kayrouz
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