Highlight: Couture S/S 15

Zuhair Murad © Style.com
   Couture Fashion Week followed Men’s runways and it was once again absolutely amazing. Not to mention a few strange pieces, Couture means to me Red Carpet dresses. I know it shouldn’t be restricted to that but I can’t make up my mind differently. When it comes to Chanel for instance, Karl surely did an amazing work, as he said he listens to his intuition and sometimes even, he dreams about novelties… He knows how to create a whole universe. At Dior as well as at Chanel, the ‘show the belly’ has also been spotted, could this be a new wave of style ? Another thing I wanted to point out, the entire performance is way slower than the ready to wear shows. This season was indeed my first time at Couture fashion week and the dresses are so dazzling in real life!

   How not to begin with my favorite designer ? Elie Saab (bellow) has done an amazing job once again. He managed to decline the nude dress differently. Embroidered, zebra-like motifs, fluffy parts and all-in-length look, no matter which one, each remains very feminine and gorgeous. The Saab woman is like a fairy coming out of an enchanted forest. No need of any story telling, the magic happens on its own and your imagination is released by itself. Elie, if you can hear me, you’re a genius ! Surprisingly, Zuhair Murad‘s collection (above) is sensibly similar to Saab’s creations but the sexiness is revealed through his dresses as he masters this dimension. His place in my heart is growing and growing. His work is as impressive as we could have dreamt of. Both of them chose pastel and discreet colors, which is something I really like.

 

Elie Saab © Style.com
   Tony Ward was a real revelation to me. I attended the show that took place in the City Hall of the 4th arrondissement. The funny story is, the mayor Mr. Girard came to my school the day after and I asked him about the show, he obviously liked it too ! His tight relationship with fashion and luxury underlines his uniqueness as a politician. During the conference he talked about his life in a philosophic way, always with humour. He didn’t mention his story with Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé that much but this is totally understandable. Moreover the fact that he didn’t watch the movies about them is truly deep, as memories must dominate everything. Anyway, his words were strong and  took me one or two teardrops… That was a little anecdote, now back to the collection ! From baby pink to sky blue through bright red, black, silver, white and antique gold, another kind of style is making its appearance and attracts my full attention. “The creation of a dress is a complicated process that reflects a beautiful mind“. Following the body’s lines or playing with the shapes, femininity is at the rendez-vous. The 5th look is very heroine-like, some sort of a 21st century Wonder Woman (whose power could have something to do with nature like offensive plants coming out of the soil – yes it is inspiring me haha) with a certain style and a strong personality, flying in the air with the floating white piece of fabric behind her. I do like it for its unusual side, plus, the embroidery is perfectly symmetric – for a maniac like me.
Tony Ward © Totem Fashion

Femme fatale is watching you at Versace. Brushstroke, pencil stroke, scissored or cut, the dresses are very arty and simple for the majority of the collection. The transparent parts are well chosen giving a mysterious and sexy DNA to the dresses. The 3rd look on the contrary, testifies of a meticulous work. The complexity and the precision that we see closer are keeping me shut. In the mean time, the last look worn by Joan Smalls is calling for power, emphasizing an independent woman. Reptile like, die Annakonda 100% approves this dress !
The culture of custom-made dresses, art of sewing, is what defines Couture’s uniqueness. It creates a story, a dream. Its rarity makes its beauty and in the end, all you need is a dress and a pair of heels. New York Fashion just started not long ago so let’s keep an eye on some ready to wear lines !

Versace © Style.com

 

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