Men’s Fashion Week : London Milan Paris
Men’s Fashion Week ended not long ago. I attended several shows in Paris and that was crazy. The whole week of Jan 29th was o v e r b o o k e d : switching between final exams, fashion shows and after show parties, needs a lot of organization and hopefully I could deal with it. That was the most productive week of my entire life ! I didn’t sleep enough but once in a while, it is bearable. I wasn’t dying, I’m fine ! Exams went perfectly, I mean I hope so, I felt I knew what I was doing so no worries, and to be honest, it doesn’t matter that much. Anyway, I was probably enjoying the menswear fashion week more than the women’s one… Does it sound familiar ? Because I’m pretty sure men will agree with me. No tension, no competition or any glance of bad vibes, everyone was simply happy to be here and it is after each finale that I could really tell the difference. Screams of joy, applause, positive atmosphere, and all this, underlines a different state of mind. Why should there be jealousy ? No need if you do something unique. I assure that following the crowd won’t make you special, and won’t make your life special, so if you ever feel the need to go into competition then you have to question yourself, especially in fashion where the choices, the styles, the ideas are as large as the ocean.
The aim behind is not to do what Style.com does, greatly, but to simply give my own vision, my opinion and my selection about what I like, and how I can see it worn on the masculine population. There isn’t enough females giving advices about menswear, and it happened to me several times that friends of mine came to ask me about what to purchase, how to style this or that, so if I can help, that would be my pleasure !
First things first. London. For a casual and everyday look, Coach goes on the right direction. The black coat is perfect for a classy cool outfit and the military print as a lining gives a little bit of color and wildness. I am 100% concurring with the bag, especially the brown one, I could wear it myself ! I find the fluffy velour-like jackets very cute, as it should be quite soft and brings a shiny reflection to the whole look. The 4th look is very urban chill, if you want to feel comfortable and a little warm, it fits a quiet walk on a sunny Sunday ! The collection ? « Urban Popularists » !
Hardy Amies on the contrary, supports a « Classy Businessmanners » style. Not to sound like a creepy fan or anything but I love the 5 looks I’ve selected. My ultimate favorite male piece is, without hesitating, suits. I adore suits. And everything that goes with them. The choices of the colors are so… SO on point. Timelessness. The shades are the perfect ones, from the Emerald green to a Navy blue, through bicolor combinations.
You said Burberry ? Yes I heard Burberry with its « Rainbow Gentlemen » . I like feeling Christopher Bailey’s peps. Lots of colors, bunch of energy, wave of creativity, how not to love this collection ! The way the bags match perfectly with the looks is genius. There’s a real consistency through each outfit. The harmony in the colors reminds me of what I’ve always loved to do in my paintings and drawings when I was little : putting together different shades of a color and giving a fun touch with prints that are in the same tones.
Italy… How I love, how I love you. Let’s take a moment to admire this Dolce & Gabbana all black everything line : D&G’s « Seducers in Black » are to die for. The work on the color and the fabrics is transcendant. Each tailor looks different even though they all remain classy and original at the same time. The marriage of multiple fabrics is well chosen, smooth and printed, velvet and shiny, and it changes everything, a same garment model can either be beautiful or ugly depending on the fabric.
At Fendi, they opted for something more mainstream, simple and casual. There’s nothing extravagant but it’s really wearable on a daily basis and I really like the color, this dark plum purple, also seen at Hermès, which can be an alternative for black.
« Fancy Mafia », irony of course, I love the Versace universe. At first glance, you can easily tell this is Versace. Very clean, uncluttered, elegant, with gold buttons referring to some royal DNA. The Versace man is looking powerful, he owns an empire and this is what I feel towards the collection. The look in the middle is one of the best ones, a plus for the color, masculine and conveying deep energy. A perfect total look !
I initially fell in love with Etro’s A/W 14/15 collection, the suits were gorgeous but I don’t understand what they have done after this season unfortunately…
|Dolce & Gabbana|
As first selection of Paris, I’ve chosen Dries Van Noten, not only because I attended the show but the looks were absolutely amazing. I am not quite sure but I think this is the biggest runway I have ever been to. It took place somewhere like a shed surrounded by ruined metros… but it was huge. I like the embroideries on the coats, and the silk flower printed pants – not pictured – that is actually very feminine but who cares, this is fashion anyway !
Hedi Slimane keeps working on his rock style for Saint Laurent while Paul Smith plays with length with the straight cut coats. At Cerruti 1881, bombers are the stars, and they are in the spotlights of several other shows as well !
Last but not least, I wanted to end with random pieces, especially the AMI shirt that you can easily wear with a suit which motifs with bits of colors will raise the style ; then the Maison Margiela coat is echoing Dries Van Noten’s, Kris Van Assche‘s visually red aluminium paper-like bomber follows Cerruti’s trend, following by Issey Miyake‘s black coat that seems very cosy and comfortable as well as Ann Demeulemeester‘s sheep’s fleece oversized coat.
|Dries Van Noten|
|Cerruti 1881 Paris|
|AMI – Maison Margiela – Kris Van Assche – Issey Miyake – Ann Demeulemeester|
To conclude, there isn’t too many ‘break the rules’ collections, at least not as many as at the women’s ready to wear shows. Nevertheless I can tell there’s a growing androgynous style. Sometimes I’m being so confused when designers randomly add a patch right on the middle of a garment, and I am just drowning in incomprehension when it could simply be amazing without it ! Yes, fashion world’s mysteries…
The week was fabulous, I met quite a lot of people and this is wonderful. What would be a world without sharing and communicating ? Julian Treasure said in a Ted conference : ” (…) Because listening is our access to understanding. Conscious listening creates understanding. And only without conscious listening can these things happen – a world where we donc listen to each other at all is a very scary place indeed.” It sums up a whole part of how important human interactions and behaviors are. Spread the world and keep sharing !
Copyright photos © Style.com